Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Community

As we enter into our second years as Peace Corps Volunteers (WHAT!!???) one of the things that has been really striking me about our experience in Boqueron is the sense of community that we feel.  This works on multiple levels- first is the sense of community in living in a small close-knit community. Second is the in the sense of how a part of that community we feel.

It isn't just Boqueron, but Panama in general, that fosters a strong sense of community.  It happens everyday that we are sitting on a packed diablo rojo (public bus) full of strangers, people that have nevermet before, and someone gets onto the bus and says "Buenas Dias!" and the entire bus responds "Buenas Dias". Meetings are the same way- someone will show up an hour and a half late (and by this I mean an hour and a half after the meeting finally started, so more like 2 and a half hours late) and someone is in the middle of talking and this person will say a big "Buenas Dias!" to the entire meeting and then go from person to person shaking hands and asking "Como Estas? and the meeting will be on hold until we go through this. It would be WAY ruder for the person to show up late, quietly sneak in the back and wait for what we American's might call 'an appropriate moment', to share her salutations.

You can't walk down the road and pass a house with someone on their porch without at least shouting a "Buenas". If you pass someone in the street you have to at the very least stop, acknowledge the weather, recognize that one of you is, yes, going up the road and that the other one is, yes, going down the road and then tell each other that you will see each other later. If you don't have that non-conversation (we both, of course, could already tell who was going up the road and who was going down. And what the weather was like) it would be all too rude.  Now, in the states this would involve adding a half an hour to your commute when you are schedulign when to head out of the house, but in Panama you leave at the same time and very respectfully just show up a half an hour late to your engagement.

This took some getting used to for me. I was always rushingrushingrushing to get to class/ a meeting on time and felt almost put-off by these unneccessary, pointless conversations when I had PLACES TO GO  and THINGS TO DO.  And didn't these folks, stopping and talking to me like they had all day, have things to do?? It feels so silly to be typing this now, so embarassing, because I get it now. Of course they have places to go and things to do, too, but never more important than saying hello to someone who lives down the road from them. Their concept of time and of community is just so different than what I was used to. They will get to their work and they will get it done, but they will always share a smile, a greeting, a small conversation with those around them. Now that is how I live my life, and before where I was putoff, I literally am excited for each (ok, most) conversation(s). It is those everyday conversations that have bonded me to the people in my community, that has made us friends insterad of strangers and that make Peace Corps what it is. I wish the US culture included more time/less awkwardness in talking to strangers.


In terms of feeling a part of the community, I have a little anecdote to share:
When we came back from our trip to the US (which was amazing, relaxing, family-filled and the perfect way to transition form year one to year two) Sean got a bad bout of food poisioning.  He literally threw up for 16 hours, even when he had nothing left to throw up. He was hurting and miserable and I felt bad but, what could I do? We had a really important meeting that day and I at least had to go so that our presence would be there even if we both couldn't make it.  I of course could not hide that Sean was not there and everyone was asking where he was, why was he not at this improtant meeting? Did he decide to stay in the United States?  Did I lose him?  I explained that no, unfortunately Sean was sick and vomiting and that he could not come to the meeting, but I knew exactly where he was.  The last part relieved them all, but they were concerned abuot his health and all told me to tell him that they hoped he felt better. The meeting ended (six hours later) and I went home to check on Sean.

He was still sick, there was still nothing I could do except for be nice.  A few hours later 8 year old Angel came by and said " My mom wants to know if Sean is still sick?" And I told him that yes, he was. "Then my mom says you need to come to my house, Sarah." I said OK and walked down to their house where his parents were anxiously awaiting news on Sean. As soon as they found out he was still sick the mother jumped up and started making some awful smelling concoction in the kitchen. About a half hour later she presented me with some combination of burnt rice and burnt coffee (heavier on the coffee side, it was a drink). She told me to take it to Sean and serve him small HOT cups of this drink every hour until it was gone and that then he would feel better. I accepted the task and headed out for my long walk home with a small pot of what I knew Sean would never consider drinking.  I got about a house away before someone shouted at me "How is Sean!??"
 "Still sick", I responded. 
Her hand signals indicated I should wait just a moment, and then they came running out with a handful of leaves. "Use this to make a tea. Serve it to him hot and he will feel better right away."
"What is this?"
"They are leaves!"
"Right. Thank you very much!"
"And remember, if you ever need anything, ever, please let us know."

I walked away, feeling warm and fuzzy from this last comment, which her strong eye contact told me was meaningful, feeling like there was at least a chance that Sean would try this remedy, and feeling a little embarassed that she thought I didn't know that they were leaves. She obviously didn't get my question.

I made it to the next house, the neighbor having overheard my shout that Sean was still sick, and was greeted with a bottle of pepto bismol. This had even less chance than the coffee, Sean is not what you would call a fan of medicines, so I made up a story about us already having a bottle and set out at a high speed hoping to make it home without another stop. Which I did.

As expected, the coffee was not even allowed entry into the house. The smell alone, Sean said, made him want to puke again. I brought the leaves in so he would at least think about making a tea from them, but then general 'leaves' answer made him wary to try it. He was on the mend, though still feeling weak. We were just taking it easy, Sean in the hammock resting.  A little while latere, when it was pitch black out, we heard Sean's name being called from outside. We opened the door and the first family (who made the coffee) was all standing outside our door with flashlights. There were the parents, plus Angel, plus their older daughter and the brother and sister-in-law of the wife.  They came to check on Sean and to offer a new kind of medicine.
In the pitch-black night lit up only by fireflies, the family at first sitting on turned over buckets that we quickly converted into outside seating, and then standing with hands held, we were on the receiving end of a long and beautiful prayer for Sean's health.  I can't overstate what it meant that this family hiked up to our house in the dark- we are considered far away from them and very few people are out walking around at night. They were truly converned about Sean and wanted to do everything in their power to help him, including calling on a higher power.
It was a different experience for us, one a year ago I might have found awkward. But that night it was so special. There was a lot of love and care in tghe entire experience and it was just nice. Really a nice thing for them to do.  The next morning Sean felt better.  We told the coffee/prayer folks that their combination was a life saver! And the tea lady that her tea was something truly special- a miracle worker.  And the Pepto-Bismol lady that was what had probably done the trick. 
But I think Sean was just feeling all the love.

2 comments:

  1. great story sarah!!! glad to hear you guys are enjoying the life there, I love the sense of community and laid back lifestyle - priorities are just different, right?!?

    say hi to sean, best to you both, phil

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  2. What wonderful, powerful lessons in life you and Sean are learning and experiencing. So, so happy for you both. These experiences will make you both stronger and wiser. Love you both - Aunt Pam

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